Along with an estimated 50 percent of women in their twenties, when my 25th birthday rolled around I instantly developed adult onset acne. I’ve tried expensive skin care lines, drug store soaps, dermatological ointments, and have even turned to medications. That was all until I decided to ditch the synthetic soaps and try out a more simplistic approach — plant-based, all-natural cleansing oils.
What is oil cleansing? Instead of cleaning your skin with soap, you rub plant-based oil into dry skin, allow your pores to soak the oils, and then wipe away the oil along with dirt and impurities. To be honest, I’d always been too scared to try this out. Most of us cringe when we think about adding oil to our face. Yet, after some studying, it turned out there was a lot of research telling tales of great success. Plus, I was completely drawn in by the science of oil cleansing, which is based on the theory that synthetic soaps remove the healthy bacteria that helps reduce acne and moisturizes. Oil cleansing, on the other hand, simply removes the dirt and impurities, while balancing healthy versus unhealthy bacteria.
I’m not going to say it was easy, but I will say that my personal experience has been dramatic and successful.
With that said, everyone is different! Keep in mind, oil cleansing may not be for you. I highly recommend speaking with your doctor or dermatologist before trying oil cleansing.
How the Ancient Art of Oil Cleansing Gave Way to Synthetic Soap
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While oil cleansing, abbreviated to OCM, may be a current mainstream idea, the practice is based on ancient bathing practices. This makes sense, as the synthetic soap you and I know wasn’t even invented until the 19th century.
So, how were people cleaning themselves?
In ancient Babylon, as early as 2800 B.C., it’s purported from ancient inscriptions that soap was made in great cylinders from fat that was “boiled with ashes.” Later on, in Rome, women who washed clothing in the river found that their clothes received a better cleansing in certain parts of the river. It just so happened that these sections of water were diluted with the animal fat and ash from nearby sacrificial alters. Taking another leap in time, in the seventh century “soapmakers [appeared] in Spain and Italy where soap was made with goat fat and Beech tree ashes,” and, going north, the “French started using olive oil to make soap,” which has been carried on for six centuries.
All of these historical tales tell us one thing: before chemicals entered the scene, the common successful denominator was, you guessed it, oil derived from various natural substances.
It wasn’t until the 18th century that chemists, specifically a Frenchman named Nicolas Leblanc, turned their skills and attention toward soapmaking. Leblanc “discovered a process for transforming common salt (sodium chloride) into an alkali called soda ash.” Alkali is essential in the creation of soap. In the United States, lye — a “metal hydroxide traditionally obtained by leaching ashes” — was mixed with animal fat to make soap.
Birth of Synthetic Soaps
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It was World War I that birthed the first detergent-based soap. Due to the massive amounts of soldier and civilian injuries, the need for better cleansing agents spiked. It was German scientists that “created a new form of ‘soap’ made with various synthetic compounds.” Yet, there are still detergent-based soaps on your local grocery or drug store shelf identifiable by “petroleum by-products” in the ingredients label. With that said, as “these ‘soaps’ are detergents, by law [they] cannot be called soap,” therefore, these companies will brand their detergent-based soap as something like “body bar.”
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Think about it. The soap we used today stemmed from cleaning agents created to clean wounds that were sustained while fighting a war over a hundred years ago?
Over the last one hundred years, soap companies have grown from small businesses to large corporate companies producing massive vats of soap. They also experiment with soap ingredients and creation. For instance, they realized that by removing glycerin “which gives [soap] moisturizing properties … they [could] sell it or use it in other higher priced products like the moisturizers and creams you need when their soap dries out your skin,” while also extending the shelf life.
The synthetic materials used to make soap — this also includes shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, and every kind of soap from hand to face to entire body — are now being research for their negative effects on our bodies. One such negative side-effect is eczema, a moderate to severe skin condition that causes inflammation of the skin, rash, dryness, and severe itchiness. Oftentimes, switching from synthetic to all-natural soaps alleviates the irritation.
Hence the resurgence of the ancient and all-natural practice of oil cleansing. Yet, modern day oil cleansing focuses on plant-based oils instead of the mixture of animal-based oils and ash. The craze is reawakening and rejuvenating hundreds of people’s skin from years of harsh synthetic abuses.
Science and Methodology
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Why is it that oil cleansing works for some people and not for others? If we all started out without synthetic soaps, then why aren’t we all reaping the benefits of these oils?
Unfortunately, there’s just no good answer to these questions. Nowadays our skin is subjected to many more diverse pollutants, chemicals, and processed or ultra-processed foods. Therefore, for some people, changing your skin care routine along with other lifestyle habits — such as diet, exercise, and even geography — may be the key to ridding yourself of certain skin conditions.
If you’re interested in trying out oil cleansing, and you’ve got the thumbs up from your doctor or dermatologist, here’s a little info on the method and the science behind oil cleansing!
The Method
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Oil cleansing methods vary depending on the type of oils you’re using, if you use a DIY recipe, or if you buy a brand with specific requirements. With that said, all methods of oil cleansing should include at least three basic steps. First, rub the oil into your skin for one to two minutes. Second, place a “warm, damp microfiber washcloth” over your face and leave in place until the skin has cooled. This second step may vary depending on the type of oil cleanser you use. Lastly, using the washcloth, wipe the oil from your face. Along with oil, you will notice dirt and impurities on the washcloth as well.
If you have especially oily skin or suffer from acne (like me!), you may be directed or may want to use an all-natural, zero-synthetic soap — such as this super-sensitive, pure plant-based Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Liquid Soap or this plant-based, 100 percent vegan, hypoallergenic Soapiary Luxury Triple Milled Soap Bar — very lightly after you’ve cleansed with oil. This last step isn’t meant to clean your face, but simply to remove any remaining oil. I personally only use the “afterward soap” only a couple of times a week on especially humid days or if my skin seems to be acting up.
The Science
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So, how does oil really cleanse your face?
The short and sweet answer is “like dissolves like.” It truly is as simple as that. Rubbing “clean, nourishing oils on your skin,” is meant to remove excess sebum, —an “oily, waxy substance produced by your body’s sebaceous glands” — clean clogged pores, and remove dead skin, pollutants, and makeup.
For those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, synthetic soaps have been shown to irritate, dry, and even exacerbate acne. How does this happen, you ask? Synthetic soaps use harsh chemicals to remove dirt and they also remove the healthy oils that keep your skin moisturized and balanced, which “[results] in the skin overproducing oil,” and therefore lead to more skin issues. Plus, the oils used in many oil cleansers “may also have healing properties, important nutrients, or other skin-boosting benefits,” depending on the ingredients you choose to use or the brand you purchase.
Oil cleansing is somewhat new to the beauty scene — even though it’s an ancient art — therefore studies on the subject are a bit rare. With that said, one study in 2010 “found that cleansing oil was good for dry, mature skin,” and another smaller study “found that adults and children who used a bath oil every other day for a month had better skin barrier function and fewer symptoms of dry skin than those who used oil-free cleansers.”
Pros and Cons of Oil Cleansing
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When it comes to skincare, it’s all about individual needs. I spent a long time trying different acne prevention methods from different brands. Some worked really well for me and yet not for others and vice versa. This is the same for oil cleansing. Here are a few pros and a few cons of this type of oil cleansing.
Pro #1 – Avoid Environmentally Unsafe Harsh Chemicals
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Choosing to switch to oil cleansing, also means that it will be easier to avoid hidden synthetic materials, harsh chemicals, and toxins. While some companies will still sneak those alcohols, fragrances, and phthalates into anything, most oil cleansers will have only oil. This is where reading the ingredients label comes in handy.
Con #1 – The Transition Can Be Frustrating
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Not all oils are created equal. What does this mean? That you may have to try out a few different concoctions and suffer the consequences before you find the perfect balance. In an extensive article by Self Magazine, two board-certified dermatologists, Joshua Zeichner, M.D. and Marie Leger, M.D. explain that using a cosmetically formulated cleansing oil over a DIY oil may be the better option. Dr. Leger states that for some cleansing oils “can cause clogged pores, breakouts, and milia, those little hard white [bumps] that can form on your face.”
With that said, the article goes on to explain that choosing a cosmetically designed oil cleaner and “reading the label carefully and selecting a cleansing oil that’s designed for your skin type,” is one of the ways to remedy these unwanted side effects.
Pro #2 – Balance Out That Good Skin Bacteria
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I’ve talked a lot about bacteria in my articles. This is mostly in relation to your gut bacteria, but today I’m referring to the good bacteria on your skin. Among other causes, recent studies have found that specific bacteria called Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) “contributes to the infection of pimples.” One of the many benefits of oil cleansing is its ability to clean dirt, impurities, and bad bacteria (such as P.acnes) without removing healthy bacteria that may help fight breakouts.
Con #2 – Doesn’t Work For Everyone
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Unfortunately, oil cleansing may not be for everyone. There are many reasons why oil cleansing may not be working for you. From human error — your method may be a little off, the type of oil may not be right for your skin, or possibly your skin needs longer to adjust — to reasons outside of your control — such as climate (too humid, too dry, too sunny, to cloudy, etc.). With that said, it may just not be right for you, and that’s okay! This can happen if you have incredibly sensitive skin or suffer from particularly skin conditions including eczema and psoriasis.
Best Natural Plant-Based Oils for Cleansing
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When it comes to oil cleansing, it’s all about the recipe! Certain oils will aggravate or heal acne-prone skin, other oils will moisturize or strip dry skin, and, still, more oils can irritate or soothe skin. So, how do you choose the right type of oil for your skin type? Here are some of the most popular oils for the most prone skin types. Keep in mind, there are many options out there, so if these don’t work for you please don’t give up right away! Simply, try out a different type of oil.
Start with a Recipe
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To begin, let’s look at the most common DIY recipe.
While fine-tuning the perfect oil cleansing takes a bit of guesswork, it’s great to start with the “most commonly used [oils] in DIY recipes … olive oil and castor oil.” Olive oil “is rich in vitamins and antioxidants,” and is very moisturizing, while castor oil has antibacterial agents and “acts like an astringent cleaner.” Once you’ve got the ingredients, “most recipes recommend starting with a 1:1 ratio.” Depending on your specific type of skin — whether oily, dry, acne-prone or sensitive — increase or decrease these ratios.
Jojoba Oil for Acne Prone Skin
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If you haven’t heard about jojoba oil, your beauty regime is about to be turned upside down! This wonderful plant-based oil is known for revitalizing, soothing, and moisturizing all skin types including those that are acne prone, those suffering from eczema or psoriasis, and even severe sunburns! Jojoba oil “is the liquid that comes from the seed of the Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) plant, which is a shrub native to southern Arizona, southern California and northwestern Mexico.” Along with being a miraculous skin agent, this waxy liquid “has been used in folk medicine for a number of ailments” including treating sores and bruises.
Jojoba oil’s powers stem from its high levels of anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, as well as the fact that it “mimics sebum, the natural oil produced by our skin,” and “removes oil buildup on our epidermis.”
Castor Oil for Dry Skin
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Castor oil is one of the oldest known oil cleansers and for good reason. First off, castor oil is technically a “multi-purpose vegetable oil,” that is made by “extracting oil from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant,” also called castor beans. Per the scientific name, castor oil does have a toxic element to it called ricin, which is deactivated via the heating process. Along with being an amazing cleanser and moisturizer, castor oil is known to reduce acne due to its anti-inflammatory agents and the ability to promote healthy skin bacteria. On top of skincare, castor oil has been used as a powerful laxative, a wound healing agent, a fungus fighter, and can be used to clean and moisturize your scalp and hair.
With that said, be aware that some people have had allergic reactions to castor oil, therefore speak with your dermatologist first. Also, if you decide to consume castor oil, speak with your doctor first! It can dangerous for pregnant women and can cause severe diarrhea if not consumed appropriately.
If you want to avoid castor oil, avocado oil is another great option for dry skin! It has many of the same benefits of castor oil — moisturizes, nourishes, reduces inflammation, and prevents acne — but can be cheaper to purchase!
Aloe Vera Oil for Irritated Skin
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Most of us have used aloe vera gel to ease the pain of a sunburn. It’s cooling and refreshing! The aloe vera plant “is a perennial plant [that] thrives in hot, arid environments” such as “North Africa, the Canary Islands, the Mediterranean region, Australia, and some areas in the United States.” The first thing to know about aloe vera is that it’s not an oil. If you use aloe vera oil, then you’re using a prepared mixture of “the aloe vera plant with a fatty oil.” Depending on the type of mixture, the skin-promoting benefits of the aloe vera may be “enhanced or reduced.”
Yet, when you get the right mixture, aloe vera oil can actually “[reduce] redness and inflammation and cools the skin,” without adding unwanted oil. On top of that, “it’s packed with Vitamin C, E, B, allantoin, minerals, proteins, amino acids, and beta-carotene,” meaning it helps heal skin.
Geranium Oil for Oily Skin
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Many people haven’t heard about this one, which makes it one of the best oils to highlight! Geranium oil is “extracted from the stems, leaves, and flowers of the geranium plant.” It’s one of the safest oils to use as its “nontoxic, nonirritant and generally non-sensitizing.” This oil has shown great success when used to treat “oily or congested skin,” as well as skin conditions including “eczema and dermatitis.” Along with many cleansing oils, geranium oil has “antibacterial and soothing anti-inflammatory properties.”
With that said, geranium oil is best used when diluted with a carrier oil such as coconut oil, olive oil, or avocado oil!
Top Plant-Based Oil Cleansing Products
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Experimenting with DIY home cleansing oil recipes can be fun, but it’s also time-consuming and can start adding up in your wallet. Therefore, try out some of the pre-prepared and tested oil cleansers that are rapidly growing in the beauty product world. Make sure you’re focusing on non-GMO, organic, plant-based cleansers. Also, if you have acne-prone or sensitive skin, make sure the product is non-comedogenic — referring to skin care products specifically formulating to not clog pores.
Oil Obsessed Ultra-Lightweight Total Cleansing Oil
Oil Obsessed Ultra-Lightweight Total Cleansing Oil/Amazon.com
bareMinerals is one of my favorite natural brands. They are paraben-free, phthalate-free, formaldehyde-free, and cruelty-free, to mention just a few. Luckily, they also recently unveiled their Oil Obsessed Ultra-Lightweight Total Cleansing Oil available for only $23.89 (which is rather good for a quality cleansing oil). It’s been purported to be excellent for dry or dry-combination skin.
Premium Natural & Organic Facial Cleansing Oil & Makeup Remover by Era Organics
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This Era Organics Cleansing Oil combines sunflower seed oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil, and rosemary leaf extract to make an oil cleanser for acne-prone skin. If you’re looking for a more affordable option, this may be your cup of tea as a five-ounce bottle goes for $13.29. On top of that pleasing price, Era Organics is cruelty-free, sulfate-free, paraben-free, alcohol-free, and purports no mineral oils or toxins in their products.
Simple Hydrating Cleansing Oil
Simple Hydrating Cleansing Oil/Amazon.com
Simple is a popular beauty product line. Not only is this due to their friendly pricing, but they also follow a great philosophy with zero artificial perfumes, alcohols, and artificial coloring, as well as zero added phthalates, parabens, silicones, and zero animal-derived products. Simple released this Simple Hydrating Cleansing Oil for only $8.10. This cleanser focuses on grapeseed oil.
For more DIY beauty products, we highly recommend downloading our Food Monster App, which is available for both Android and iPhone, and can also be found on Instagram and Facebook. The app has more than 15,000 plant-based, allergy-friendly recipes, and subscribers gain access to new recipes every day. Check it out!